Everything you need to know about AHA and BHA

By Camilla Svensson

16 January 2025

Skincare

Learn the difference between AHA and BHA! Get glowing skin, fight acne and exfoliate effectively. Perfect for every skin type!

AHA and BHA are two of the most popular ingredients in modern skincare. They have revolutionised the way we exfoliate our skin, offering effective solutions for everything from acne and pigmentation to fine lines and uneven skin texture. But what exactly are AHA and BHA, how do they work, and which one should you choose?

In this article, you’ll learn everything you need to know about AHA and BHA – and how to best incorporate them into your skincare routine.

Benefits

Exfoliates the skin and removes dead skin cells.
Improves skin texture and radiance.
Reduces fine lines and wrinkles.
Helps with pigmentation and uneven skin tone.
Hydrates the skin and boosts cell renewal.

What are AHA and BHA?

AHA (Alpha Hydroxy Acid) and BHA (Beta Hydroxy Acid) are both exfoliating acids that work on the skin to remove dead skin cells and improve its appearance. Although they have similar purposes, they work differently and are suited to different skin types and concerns.

AHA (Alpha Hydroxy Acid)

Water-soluble acids that primarily work on the skin’s surface. They are ideal for combating dry skin, uneven skin tone, and fine lines. Examples of AHA acids include glycolic acid, lactic acid, and mandelic acid.

BHA (Beta Hydroxy Acid)

Oil-soluble acids that can penetrate deeper into pores to dissolve sebum and impurities. BHA is particularly effective for oily and acne-prone skin. Salicylic acid is the most well-known BHA.

Read also: Everything you need to know about Salicylic Acid

Which one should you choose – AHA or BHA?

The choice between AHA and BHA depends on your skin type and the specific issues you want to address:

Choose AHA if you have:

Dry or dehydrated skin
Sun damage or hyperpigmentation
Fine lines and signs of ageing

Choose BHA if you have:

Oily skin
Acne or blemishes

Can AHA and BHA be used together?

Yes, it is possible to use both AHA and BHA together, but it requires caution. Both acids are exfoliating and can irritate the skin if overused.

If you want to combine them, you can either:

Use them alternately: e.g. AHA in the morning and BHA in the evening.
Use them on different areas: AHA on dry areas and BHA on oily areas.

Always remember to start slowly and gradually increase usage so your skin can adjust to the acids.

How to use AHA and BHA?

To get the best results from AHA and BHA, use them correctly:

Cleanse the skin: Start with a gentle cleanser to remove dirt and oil.

Apply the acid: Use a toner or serum with AHA or BHA. Wait a few minutes for the product to penetrate.

Moisturise and protect: Finish with a moisturiser, and always apply sun protection during the day. Acids can make the skin more sensitive to sunlight.

Usage

AHA is used to exfoliate the skin’s surface, remove dead skin cells, and promote a smoother and more even skin tone. It’s particularly effective for dry, dull skin and reducing fine lines and pigmentation.

How long does it take to see results with AHA?

You can often see smoother and more radiant skin after a few weeks of using AHA, but more significant results can take 4-6 weeks.

Good to know

AHA makes the skin more sensitive to the sun, so always use sunscreen the day after. Over-exfoliation can irritate the skin, so start with lower concentrations and avoid combining with strong ingredients like retinol.

Using AHA in skincare

AHA is best used in the evening as it exfoliates the skin and can make it more sensitive. Apply after cleansing, and follow up with hydrating products to protect the skin barrier and prevent dryness or irritation.

AHA serum

An AHA serum is a lightweight formula that quickly absorbs into the skin to exfoliate and improve texture and radiance. It’s perfect for those looking for targeted treatment for fine lines, uneven skin tone, or dryness. Start by using it 2-3 times a week.

AHA peel

An AHA peel is an intensive treatment that removes dead skin cells and leaves the skin smooth and glowing. It’s ideal for uneven skin texture and hyperpigmentation. Use it once a week and choose a concentration that suits your skin type and tolerance.

How to use an AHA peel?

Cleanse your face and pat the skin dry before applying the AHA peel. Leave it on for 5-10 minutes (or as directed), then rinse thoroughly with lukewarm water. Follow up with moisturiser and avoid using other active ingredients on the same day.